Monday, January 31, 2011

Photoshop Adventures


It's now been more than a year and a half since I've been out of the country. Gah! But in an attempt to make life more interesting I took an intro to Photoshop class. So now, instead of taking amazing pictures while having amazing adventures, I'll just Photoshop pictures to make it look like I'm having amazing adventures. The pictures are the most important part anyway...right?




Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Facebook and Peace Dot Bypass Borders


In the past twenty-four hours 5,185 connections were made between Palestinians and Israelis using Facebook. Oh. You thought Facebook was just a way to show off your spring break pictures? Think again.

Earlier tonight Peace Innovation, a project out of Stanford University led by Professor BJ Fogg and the Persuasive Technology Lab, launched Peace Dot – a project to promote world peace through persuasive technology. Peace Dot is encouraging companies and organizations around the world to create subdomains within their existing websites that will be devoted to innovative solutions that lead to peace. Peace Innovation lists nineteen domains that have already been created, and Facebook is leading the way with peace.facebook.com.

Facebook’s page features statistics of social networking connections between historically conflicting groups, subdivided into geographic, religious, and political categories. In addition to the connections made between Israelis and Palestinians, 7,339 connections were made between Indians and Pakistanis, 8,431 between Albanians and Serbians, and 13,790 between Greeks and Turks. Connections are also listed between Christians, Muslims, Jews, Atheists, and more specifically, between Sunnis and Shiites.

Admittedly, this site isn’t necessarily promoting specific actions to foster peace yet, but for me, it was uplifting just to see real numbers of those who are reaching out to their brothers and sisters on the other side of the struggle. It can be far too easy to slip into apathy or skepticism about the goal of peace in the Middle East or the larger goal of world peace. Just look at the other graph that shows the percentage per country of people who believe world peace is an attainable goal in the next fifty years. Only 7 percent of Americans agree with this statement. But knowing that these new connections are being made every minute reminds me, and will hopefully remind the other 93 percent of Americans, that we will not always be stuck in grid-locked negotiations. With every passing moment there is a growing movement of people, young and old, who are taking matters into their own hands, and making the effort to connect on a personal level with those they might otherwise be fighting.

Government and military cooperation is certainly a necessary part of peace-building, but real, lasting peace requires cooperation on an individual level. Peace Innovation seems to be about bringing the peace movement to and from the individual, using technology as the impetus for change. Peace Dot is only in its first few hours of operation, and there’s no way of telling whether or not the movement will catch on, but there’s no reason why it shouldn’t change the world. One of the hardest parts of creating peace is getting past the “other” mentality and moving towards a “we” mentality.

Throughout the course of human history, meeting face-to-face with someone on the other side of a political, religious, ethnic, or cultural conflict has been dangerous and difficult if not impossible. By using social networking tools, those borders should dissolve wherever there is an internet connection.

Check out the other domains that are already promoting world peace and Peace Dot:

Check out this post at on Tikkun Magazine's Daily Blog. http://www.tikkun.org/tikkundaily/2009/10/28/facebook-and-peace-dot-bypass-borders/

Monday, October 12, 2009

Raving at LovEvolution


As one of the newest interns at Tikkun I was pretty eager to prove my dedication to the magazine as we were nearing our print deadline, so I was a little more than irritated when my boyfriend asked me to take off to attend LovEvolution with him in San Francisco last Saturday. “I don’t think they’d appreciate it if I took off to go to a rave,” I said with a little more than a hint of impatience.

“Erin, it’s not just a rave. It’s LovEvolution!” He proceeded to explain how, for the nonreligious like himself, festivals like LovEvolution are the closest he ever gets to an opportunity for congregationalism. Now I’ll admit, I was skeptical, but come on. Techno music, drug use, and half-naked girls in furry boots are a far cry from the congregationalism I experienced in small, country Methodist churches in rural Maryland. “You just wanna party.” But trying to be open-minded and supportive, I agreed to go. Let me just say, I was not prepared.

Roughly 100,000 people rolled into San Francisco’s Civic Plaza for the festival, originally adapted from Berlin’s Love Parade. LovEvolution (formerly known as Lovefest) is a parade that features electronic DJs from around the world and provides an opportunity for people of all ages to enjoy an atmosphere of community, music, and dance for the country’s largest day rave. It was more than a little overwhelming for someone who’s never been to a rave, but as it turns out, it is very much a form of congregationalism … just replace all those old church ladies with twenty-somethings in body paint.

Like Woodstock and Burning Man and so many other music festivals around the world drug use and drunkenness run rampant, but LovEvolution is more than just an excuse for debauchery. Behind the scantily clad raver chicks and beer-guzzling frat boys stands a genuine desire to build a community, however temporary, based on a common respect for humanity. Even for someone like me who chooses to abstain from drugs like ecstasy, the raver drug of choice, you can’t help but feel connected to the thousands of others in attendance. Ravers stand shoulder-to-shoulder attempting to dance, or drink, or get to the next stage, but there’s no animosity when someone bumps into your arm and spills your drink¾only apologies, and hugs, and more than a few exclamations of “I love you, man.”

The congregation that is LovEvolution is a chance for individuals from all walks of life to be a part of something bigger than themselves¾to be something other than ordinary. As DJs spin their most popular tracks, members of the audience rejoice in dance and song as one, in the same way that a religious congregation rejoices in singing praises to their higher power. In both cases we are free to lose ourselves in something that seems so much better, so much more beautiful than we could ever be on our own. How is that not like church? Do we, as religious communities, not run to our congregations to feel a part of something? To seek comfort in the love of our brothers and sisters?

In both forms of congregationalism there is the opportunity to shed our skin as ordinary people and don the costume of something extraordinary. There’s no shortage of people in outrageous outfits at LovEvolution (just check out the pictures). Like any rave, dressing up is a large part of the fun, but it is also a way to help us step out of our routines and let go of what is normal. In business suits we are confined to our roles as upstanding citizens of mainstream society, but dressed as pink rabbits and fairies we are free to hug strangers and scale streetlights. Within a church context, Christians are allowed to let go of their identities as mail clerks and financial analysts and simply be children of God. In both cases, being part of a group means being able to say that we are not of this world and the rules of this world do not apply to us. It is escapism, but it is escapism from the self into the community. And it is an opportunity to have this feeling of community with no prerequisites.

As unifying as religion, or culture, or nationality can be, it can also be terribly divisive. As a cultural Christian I have had so many opportunities to engage in a congregation with other Christians and experience the joys of being a part of such a community¾of letting go of this world and being a part of something better, but what if that’s not enough? How many opportunities do I have to connect with all of my fellow human beings simply because we have our humanity in common? In every country, in every culture, there are such celebrations that grant the opportunity to celebrate being together, but what I find so refreshing about LovEvolution is how inclusive the festival is. We are not celebrating a holiday, or a common heritage, or a particular theology. We simply proclaim that we love, and we ask to be loved in return.

Everyone loves an excuse for a party, but we don’t always need an excuse. LovEvolution is proof that wanting to be together should be more than enough to bring us together as a community and a congregation.

So yes, Sergey, you were right.


Check out this post at www.tikkun.org/tikkundaily/

Friday, October 9, 2009

Letters to America


In place of a mid-term examination, I had my students write letters to America, the American government and President Obama. Thought you might be interested in what they had to say.


Peace be upon you. Before I continue my letter I want introduce myself. My name is Novy, I come from Indonesia. I’m here wanna ask something about culture in America, because maybe someday I will go to America and I will enter to university in America. I think America is a big country and it have many technology and some knowledge which there isn’t in Indonesia and I will study it because I will improve my country to be a good country and I think the condition of my country now is broke. Many crisis, criminal, free sex, drugs and so on. Maybe I will ask to you, how do you America serve a criminal from their country? And what do you think about free sex, lesbian, homosexual? Because maybe most of them get AIDS, and that will of course make a public very afraid. And how to serve AIDS from your country? Because I see in many country now many people get AIDS. May be until here my letter. That’s very nice to meet you and I ask sorry if you found some mistake from me, and the last I say to you.


Handed to all my friends in America,
Hello all my friends! I won’t write this letter if my English teacher, Miss Erin, have not said.
I write this letter to talk of all of American people. And I have some questions after telling who am I. I am an Indonesian student, my old is 16 years old and I am a Moslem (Moslem girl). Maybe we can exchange our mind from this letter.
I know from many medias that your country is a great country. Most of you are educated people, you are modern in technology and so on. Friends, my country is a big country. We have many beautiful destination place to visit. But, after all, until nowadays my country still being country with most of people still live in moneyless, and also not educated. We ask your solution, how can we be a great country like you are?
Thanks,
Farisa


To all my friends at America Country:
Hello all. How are you? I hope you fine. I’m here always fine. How your examination? How much did you get your points and what class are you now? Do you want to Indonesia country? If me, I’m so very very want to go to America country. I so miss you friend. Do you miss me? Now I sit at 1st class of high school. I’m get the beautiful point. If we meet tomorrow I will bring you to Borobudur temple, parangtritis beach and we will take walk. But I hope it not just dream. I want to see you but when? I don’t know, but if God Allah want maybe we will meet tomorrow, next week, next month, next years. Important if God Allah want it will be! Oh…yes do you have a boyfriend? I hope you don’t but just friend usual. Because we as young generation we must concentration in our study. Yes maybe until here my letter. Some time I will send letter to you again and I hope we will meet friend. And goodbye.


Here I am Indonesian Moslem. I am 17 years old and I am Javanese. I have some idea in my mind about America. And I not really understand about America’s government. America’s culture, the youth of America, the education of America, etc.
First, I wanna ask to the new president of America. Most of Indonesian or maybe most of people in this world, they support you to be a American President. I don’t know what it caused. But Indonesian, they think you are the good person, the honest person and I really hope it is a truth. I hope you to not make all people sad. Thanks you.
Second, for all the Moslem there, are you feel easy to pray to God anywhere? Do our obligation. And do the best for all, make this world to be calm, there is no war? I really hope to you all to make it. Because America is the superpower country, who has a super power like his name, the super power country. And last peace be on to you.
Third, for all youth in America. How the culture of youth life? I just wanna ask it. Thanks.
And I hope to all, maybe we can to be friends. Our country will cooperate always.
Me. Indonesian youth.


Hi…I’m in Indonesian Moslem. Are there Moslems in USA? I hope it there. I wanna ask to you the youth in USA…why do you like to do making love with your girlfriend or boyfriend? Because all Indonesian say that’s a habit in your country. I’m sorry if my speaking is very impolite. But I’m so angered with this problem. But, I’m sure that not all people in USA do like that. I’m honest that I don’t know about the America culture, custom, government, etc. And what about studying in America? Is teaching in America use the book and write when the teacher teaches? Or use the laptop every going to school? In my mind that’s in America is the modern country. I think at there there is now rite in book and bringing the many books every go to school. Isn’t it? Please tell me about America custom. Because, sometimes I wish for continuing my study in some country in America. But I think that only insane!!! About American government. I’m very interested about new president in America that’s Barack Obama. Isn’t it? Because I think that can make all people in the world interested with him and all people in this world support that he will be a good president and make increasing the development in America country. And I hope that America and Indonesia will make a good relationship, won’t you?


Hallo…How are you? I hope you are fine. I am from student of Al-Mawaddah want ask to you are. Why in America the people not friendly? In Indonesia, all the people is very friendly. So, why you are speak we are terrorist? I always see in the internet or newspaper you are always speak we are (people Moslem) is terrorist. I want all people in this world be peace. I do not want we are fighting. And I ask one a question again. How to be a super power country? Coz I am very like with your country. Please, give a solution for this. Maybe only this letter I ask sorry if you found some mistake from my write. And the last I say…Peace be on to you.


Hai…Hello Americans…How are you all over there??? I hope you are fine and enjoy with your new president. Here I am a student of Al-Mawaddah boarding school. I sit at fifth grade (senior high school). I want ask some question to Americans. 1. Why you are didn’t like Moslem? Maybe it’s not all of you but I think many people is like that. I hope we can make a good relation. And make sure this world in peace. You are is the super power country. You have influence for this world. So, to Mr. Barack Obama! I hope you can make united for this world. Less the fight and make new relation. I have question. Why America want control this world? Sorry, maybe this letter not be nice letter.


To American (especially to youth people). He…how are you American? What are you doing? I hope you in the fine day! Here, I am Indonesian. I student at boarding school of girl and I Moslem! Are you know about Moslem? Moslem is religion I believe that you know. Cause I know that in American there are many Moslems there. Is it right? And I hope we are Moslems can be friend with you other religion. And I hope we don’t think about our differences in our religion. We can be friend and not be enemy or more! I hope between our religion can peace! I want cry if I see our religion fighting its too much! We are as young generation we must can make us be friend okay! We must show that differences is nothing if differences cannot make us be enemy! I know that our religion never teach us to fight with other religion. I believe it. Lets be friend. Lets be family! Won’t you? I Indonesian I hope between our country can be example to other that we can make our cooperation is fine. And I want ask help to you all we need many science and experience. We hope you can divide your science to us and to Barack Obama and the government at America. You are the big country. And I hope you are can make among country with country other be peace! I hope it please! Maybe you can respond my letter.


Dear the people of America…Sometime, I feel bored with many things I see around me. The young generation of Indonesia who don’t care to the condition of their country. I’m really really bored to see it. But suddenly I’ll realize that my country is my life. I’ve to receive the positive and negative sides of our condition. Because no thing is perfect in this world. Is it right? Then, sometime I feel proud to my country because it has the different culture from other countries. It has many languages and many kinds of foods, etc. Unfortunately, the people of Indonesia was careless to the condition of the country. So, we will correct and straighten it. And how is your opinion for solving this problem? I know that America is a big country. And it has big power to do everything in business, works, monetary, style, fashion or leadership. I’m admiring the leadership system of America, because the leader able to manage his members/public well. I suppose enough here my letter and I hope to see America, the real America in the future. Thank you.
The student of Indonesia.


Peace be upon you…
America
- They aren’t afraid with sin. That many free sex still much.
- Someone not keep the peace, and more like the war. Like in Palestine.
- Love peace, Please! We all family.


To: American girl
From: Me “veiled girl”
Sweet great on your happy today! Hello…how are you all? I hope you are all in the fine condition. Be following or by sending this letter. I here just want asking some question for you are all. And I hope this question only be unburden heart between us. My question: “did you think a veiled girl is the terrorist?”


I’m a student at Al-Mawaddah. I want give some opinion about American country. I know that America is big country. Why America country fight with Iraq country? We know that peace is beautiful! I see in television in Iraq country every body has cry and sad. And every place there is fight between soldier America and soldier Iraq.
And I just wanna say to President Obama “Peace is Paradise to Us.”


(And finally my favorite, because sometimes mistakes are brilliant.)

How are you America? From come this letter I want know about America and I want asking about America. So I want to come to America for know about something about the school in America and about the season in America. So anything in America the beautiful contrary. So America is the biggest contrary in the words.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Finding the Oppressed


I’m not sure how much attention this is getting in the American media right now, but Al Jazeera has been doing extensive coverage of the celebration of the 30th anniversary of the revolution in Iran. There have been documentaries, interviews and live coverage from all over the country, with the purpose of trying to understand the real political and social climate in Iran. Are the people of Iran being stifled by an oppressive government, or is Iran just being demonized by the west? Are the people actually happy?

Coverage from a mall in Tehran showed wealthy, modern women shopping at boutique and designer stores in tight jeans, high-heeled boots and, of course, the obligatory pashmina wrapped around their heads. Except that, their pashminas weren’t really doing anything. Their hair was clearly teased and styled and the pashmina was draped only over the back half of their heads, serving basically no purpose but to meet the requirement that women veil.
I’m almost positive that if I had watched this last year I would have been glad for these women. Despite the current regime in power, Iranian women are still finding ways to express their beauty, femininity, and yes, even to be sexy. It’s the women who are dressed in shapeless burlap bags with only their faces showing that are to be pitied – those girls who aren’t allowed to show even a wisp of hair. But that’s not how I felt last week.

I showed one of my friends the sad excuse for a jilbab that I wear, and she laughed at me, because it’s so scandalous. I drape it over my head, toss one end over my shoulder and let my hair hang out as much as it wants. Oh, and it’s kind of see-through. No one at the pesantren has had any complaints about it. I wear it, because I want to show respect to my community, and that’s all. And I know that they know that.

For girls in the pesantren, covering their hair is a big deal. It’s an outward display of their religious discipline and their modesty. They are taught that their hair is their crown, a gift from God that should only be enjoyed by their future husband. I know for a fact that many of them will continue to wear a jilbab for the rest of their lives, and even if they went to a non-Muslim country where no one else wore one, they would still choose to wear it.

The reality of the situation is that Indonesia is a tropical country. Wearing long-sleeves, long skirts and a jilbab is freaking hot. Like, dripping with sweat hot. Wearing Muslim clothing is not a fun experience, but do I think these girls are oppressed because of their clothing? No more than American women are oppressed, because they have to wear bathing suit tops while men only have to wear shorts. No more than kids who have to wear ugly, outdated school uniforms.

It’s the already “liberated” women that I feel bad for. There were plenty of women shown in Iran dressed similarly to the girls at my school. They wore a full head covering and more modest clothing. I fully support their choice to dress in that way as a symbol of their religion and lifestyle choices, but the women who wear sheer pashminas just for the sake of law clearly don’t care whether or not their hair is showing. And you can bet that if it means nothing to them, they probably don’t want to do it. As breezy and light as some of my pashminas are, I hate all of them. Every single one. I want to cover them with lighter fluid and light a match and watch them burn. They don’t mean a thing to me, and the fact that I still have to wear them, still have to think about them, still have to sweat under them, makes me loathe getting dressed in the morning. Being forced to take part in a cultural/religious tradition that has no meaning to me - that is oppression.

To take a step back, I don’t really know that those women in Iran hate having to cover their heads, but as is the case with me, I think that if they really cared, if they really believed that it was an issue of modesty, then they would actually cover their heads, instead of just doing enough to stay out of trouble. Having to adhere to rules that contradict or are irrelevant to your own feelings and beliefs is oppression. Not being able to fully express yourself, because of someone else’s moral agenda is oppression.

I also can’t say that all of the women who do wear full Muslim dress do so willingly. Patriarchy, which is the real culprit behind this so-called oppression, (religion is only ever a tool) is another issue that I’ll hopefully get to later. Still, I find there to be a striking difference between the social rules that a family or community might enforce and laws that turn rebellious teenagers into criminals. There are plenty of American parents who won’t allow their daughters to leave the house in clothing that they deem to be too revealing, but a miniskirt and a tube-top alone won’t get them 30 lashes from the police.

Because I don’t share the conservative, Muslim idea of modesty, I like to run away from the pesantren on weekends to more liberal (and sometimes Christian) cities to escape my oppression. This weekend I ran away to Salatiga, bought a sundress and wore it around the city. It was a truly liberating experience. It was a pretty hot day, and I enjoyed knowing how much less miserable I was because I wasn’t wearing something on my head or arms or legs. Thank God I have ways to escape.

Only moments ago there was a news report from the Malakand and Swat Valley regions of Pakistan, where local governments have agreed to enforce Shari’a law in accordance with Taliban demands. The report showed clips of celebrating Muslim men, and I wanted to punch every single one of them in the face. Even as I’m typing this I feel so enraged that it’s making me nauseous. I’m tired of dressing like a nun, but at least I’m here by choice. At least I can get away.
What choice do those Pakistani women have? I’ve found that the only choice I have, if I don’t want to sweat under a scarf, is to stay inside and away from the public eye. This only plays further into the hands of the oppressor. They want their women in the kitchen and the bedroom, slaving away to make their lives more comfortable. She finds herself further separated from other discontented women. Should they be allowed to interact, they might find that they have the strength to move together to throw off their oppressors. Instead they find themselves further isolated. And that sucks. It’s almost enough to make you want to pick up an AK-47 and fire back at the bastards. Or start an NGO….something like that.

I’m trying not to project my frustration with Muslim culture onto entire nations. That wouldn’t exactly be fair, but I’m probably doing a poor job of it. I concede that, although I may feel a new connection with and understanding of women in conservative Muslim culture, it is not my place to go pointing out the oppressed and the empowered. That is something that the individual must do for herself (or himself). The most that I can do is to support those who do feel that they are in need of liberation, or take it upon myself to educate those in need of education. For those downtrodden, who live in closed communities, it may not ever occur to them that there is another possible way of life. For there to exist a choice, there must first be options, and the knowledge of options comes with education.

At some point in human history, clothing stopped being about protection from the forces of nature and this silly idea of modesty evolved. A woman with dignity and self-respect would never wear (fill in the blank.) Except that what gets me labeled as a prude in one country gives men the right to jeer at me in another country. Modesty is a social construction to begin with, and the idea that clothing is necessary at all is rather silly. Or for that matter, believing that a few inches of hemline is the difference between a businesswoman and a prostitute.

One of the many reasons I’ve heard for veiling is that men would just not be able to control themselves sexually if women walked around with their hair flowing freely. Except that they can and do. And anyway, if men are the stronger and more intelligent sex, I’d think they would be able to control themselves without women having to suffer. But to go further, I’ve heard young girls in Christian youth groups being told that they should help their struggling Christian brothers by dressing “appropriately” and not tempting them with impure thoughts – so basically, don’t dress like a skank. Is this any more or less ludicrous than the idea that hair would be a distraction? Either way, men and women can learn to control themselves and should be held responsible for their own actions. Sorry Adam. Eve may have tempted you, but in the end, it’s your own damn fault. If you really can’t control yourself, get a blindfold.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

A Last Minute Trip to Borneo


How did I end up in Borneo? You might wonder. Well, it is simple. I got on a plane, and I arrived. Was it that simple? Yes.

You see, there was a group of four girls, who were part of the Sulawesi trip who were planning on visiting Kalimantan right after we left Makassar. Kalimantan is the Indonesian side of the island of Borneo. There are two ETAs who live just outside Banjarmasin, and the plan was for all six of them to fly from Makassar to Banjarmasin via Surabaya, spend a couple days together at their sites in Martapura, and then the four girls were going to the nearby town of Loksado to do some jungle adventuring. Then one of them decided she couldn’t go, I forget why. I needed a ticket from Makassar to Surabaya anyway, so I offered to buy part of her ticket from her, since she couldn’t get a refund from the airline. Of course, the other five tried to persuade me to come with them to Kalimantan for a few days, since I had the ticket anyway. But I was trying to be responsible. I should go back to the pesantren for a few days since I’ve been traveling for such a long time. And I should do some laundry and pick up some nice clothes before the mid-year conference. If I did decide to go to Kalimantan, I’d have to go directly from there to the conference.

So I was pretty much set on going back to Java, but on the plane ride to Surabaya, about five minutes before we landed I remembered that going to Borneo was one of my life goals. I don’t remember why, but at some point I had decided that Borneo was one of those places that I just had to go. I was planning on going anyway, later in the year, but what if there was a series of terrorist bombings in Indonesia and all the Fulbrighters were sent home before I got the chance to go? What if I was fired for something silly (AMINEF would do that) and missed my chance. I turned to Dan, who was sitting next to me and asked him if Kalimantan was a good idea. Yes, he said. Well then I’ll go. Five minutes later, when we landed, I grabbed my bag and walked right onto the next plane with the other five. And that’s how I ended up in Borneo. Life goal: CHECK!

So what did we do in Kalimantan? The first day, we all went to the Martapura market to buy some fresh fruits, vegetables, spices, herbs, tofu and tempe for a delicious family dinner. Somehow I kind of ended up in charge of cooking, which is silly right? I think Dan got stressed out, so I took over. We started chopping, slicing and generally preparing all the ingredients for a number of dishes I decided on, and then realized the stove didn’t work. So we ended up stowing the food away until we could get the stove fixed and got some take-out chicken. We ended up sitting around watching The Prince and Me which is just the type of movie that I love watching in this country. I’m not sure why, but chick-flicks have major appeal to me in Indonesia. I’ve consulted with other female ETAs and for some reason, we all really enjoy sappy, corny love stories much more than usual.

The next morning, Emmy, the one who lives in Martapura, took the other three girls to visit her school, which is also a pesantren. Emmy and I are the only girls who teach in pesantrens. I decided not to go 1. because I was tired and wanted to sleep in, and 2. because I didn’t want to put on a jilbab while on vacation. I think Emmy understood. We were supposed to leave for Loksado that afternoon, but Maria got really sick, so we postponed our departure for the next day. None of us minded another day of hanging around Emmy’s house eating chicken and watching movies. We watched the Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants 2, which I thought was even better than the first one, and The Prince and Me 2. That one was not so great. Emmy also got the stove fixed so we were able to make dinner. It was another lazy, wonderful day.

The next morning, no one wanted to go to school with Emmy, so I did, even though I didn’t want to put on a jilbab. It turned out she didn’t teach that day anyway, so I just walked around with her quickly, to compare pesantrens, and then we went back to her house. Maria was feeling better so we loaded up our stuff and caught a “cab” to the city of Kandangan.

“Cab” gets quotation marks, because it’s not a cab in the American sense. It’s more like a shared ride van, but more cramped and without air conditioning. We took that to the city of Kandangan (about three hours away) and then transferred to another “cab” to the town of Loksado. The second cab was even better. It was a truck with a tarp over the truck bed and some benches and a lot of cargo in the back. That was a fun ride, and we got to travel with some cute old ladies.

Loksado isn’t really a town so much as a fork in the road with some food stands and a hotel. The hotel is cool though because its on a little island in the middle of a tiny little river. We didn’t get in until kind of late in the afternoon, but we had time for a quick hike before sunset. Our guide was just some random guy who didn’t talk to us, but he took us to a Dayak village nearby and then to a couple of waterfalls. The Dayak village included a pretty big longhouse, which I guess was kind of cool, but after Tana Toraja it was kind of boring. The waterfalls were fun though. We decided to do some cliff-jumping and swimming in our clothes. For dinner we had some decent food at a warung and then spent the rest of the night hanging out in our hotel room.

The next morning we were psyched for some bamboo rafting. Check out the pictures for these. The rafts are great because they float (obviously), but on rapids they just sort of cut through the water. A couple times I was in rapids up to my chest. It was really fun, and we had a great river guide. Watching him pole down the river was like watching a pole-vaulter. We rafted by some pretty remote village and some beautiful scenery…rice paddies and mountains, the usual. My favorite part was seeing these super remote bamboo huts in the middle of nowhere with gigantic satellites in their front yard. You have to wonder how they got there when there’s no road access.

The whole rafting trip took about two hours, and it was exciting, but also super relaxing. There were long, quiet stretches where we could just zone out and think. Not that I don’t already have too much time to think in this country.

Because of the mid-year conference and our delay in getting there, we only got to spend one night in Loksado, but I think we would’ve run out of things to do there anyway, had we stayed longer. We headed back to Martapura a little after noon that day, but instead of a “cab” we took ojeks back to Kandangan. This was, by far, the best ojek ride I’ve had in Indonesia. Riding through the mountains of Kalimantan has to be done by ojek. A car just doesn’t do it justice. Everything was so green and the sky was so blue. It was perfect. By the end of the hour and a half ride, though, my butt hurt and I was glad to hop back into a “cab.”

We got back to Martapura in the evening and had one more evening of take-out chicken and bad movies before leaving. We started to watch The Prince and Me 3. Isn’t that awful? What’s even worse is that Emmy actually owns all three of them. Ha. We didn’t finish it though. It was that bad. The next day, Caitlin and I headed back to Surabaya together to spend the night before we flew to Jakarta for our conference. Since I didn’t go back to my pesantren before the conference, I ended up wearing a combination of smelly clothes I’d bought and worn during my travels and some stuff that Dre let me borrow. But, being smelly in a nice hotel in Jakarta is a small price to pay for a trip to Kalimantan.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Grave-Hopping with the Mak-Pak


The last you’d heard, it was January 3rd, and I was heading to Makassar, Sulawesi. From what we had heard, there were about fourteen other ETAs heading into South Sulawesi on the same day as us or the day after, but we miscalculated by a day. There are two ETAs who live in Makassar, but neither of them was in, so we had to crash at a hotel for the night. Makassar isn’t a very interesting city, but it’s on the ocean and is known throughout Indonesia as having the best seafood in the entire country. Long story short, Makassar is not a bad place to spend 24 hours. We spend most of that time eating amazing seafood and sleeping.

The next day, two ETAs, Chris and Jonthon, flew into the Mak along with Jonthon’s friend Angad, who was visiting from the states. Chris is one of the guys who lives in Makassar, so we chilled at his house for a few hours in sarongs playing board games. Then we headed back into the city to watch the sunset over the water with some drinks and calamari. The calamari was possibly the best I’ve ever had, and it’s still haunting my dreams. The sunset wasn’t bad either.

After a few sundowners, we headed to Lae-Lae for a fish feast. The LP claims that Lae-Lae is one of the top five restaurants in all of Indonesia, and I don’t know that I would go that far, but I wouldn’t ever turn down a Lae-Lae meal. We shared an enormous dinner of ikan rica-rica and kangkung, before heading to the bus station. There were four more ETAs coming in from Java, who were planning on grabbing a night bus to Tana Toraja. Dre and I were going to follow, but at the last minute, Jonthon and Angad invited us to go to Majene for a couple days. Jonthon is stationed in Majene, and he promised we’d have a good time. I was never one to turn down a last minute invitation to a seaside fishing village, so we took that nightbus instead.

Jonthon was a great host, and Majene, although a little out of the way (a 10 hour bus-ride to the middle of nowhere), is as quaint and picturesque as one could imagine. I would be extremely jealous of Jonthon if he wasn’t so far from an airport.

We arrived in Majene at about five o’clock in the morning and passed out. We were supposed to visit Jonthon’s school that day, but none of us wanted to, so we didn’t. We bummed around until lunchtime. Jonthon took us to one of his favorite warungs, and then we did a quick tour of the town. We sat at the town harbour for a little while, and of course, attracted dozens of local kids, who were content to stare at us for an hour. For dinner that night, some of Jonthon’s friends took us north along the coach to the village of Somba for another fish feast. Those Sulawesians love their fish feasts. This time, we were in a shack right in the sand and got to try flying fish – the local specialty. The sunset was beautiful, the fish was good, and we were stuffed on the ride home. It was already a pretty perfect day, but we stopped on the way home to buy some ice cream and coconut biscuits for dessert. Angad passed out, but Jonthon, Dre and I stayed up dipping biscuits in ice cream and singing Rent.

We spent the second day visiting Jonthon’s school, which is so different from my school it’s laughable. There were very few teachers to be seen, no classes in session, and the students were just sort of milling around and hanging out or climbing coconut palms and then drinking coconut milk in the back. I didn’t mind this last part, since I love coconut, and I got more than my fill.

The school is an SMK, which is kind of like a vocational school. This particular SMK specializes in computers and cosmetology, so Dre and I got free facials and then spoke to the girls about beauty. I spent a good twenty minutes explaining why I was brown, and why I’m glad to be brown, and how brown is beautiful in the states. After we left school, Jonthon took us to a beach where we worked on getting even more brown.

We were obligated to go to Jonthon’s headmasters house that evening for dinner – his headmaster was celebrating the birth of his granddaughter. It was as awkward as these things always are. We sat there and let everyone gawk at us, and then we had an absolutely brilliant meal, which always makes up for the freak show they put us through. Almost always. After dinner, Angad caught a bus back to Makassar so he could fly home, and Dre, Jonthon and I slept for a few hours before waking up to catch a bus to Pare-Pare.

Pare-Pare is about halfway between Majene and the city of Rantepao and falls right along the route from Makassar to Rantepao. There were ten more ETAs heading up from Makassar that morning to Tana Toraja. They had rented some cars and agreed to pick us up on their way. It was great to see everyone again, and even better to switch from an unairconditioned commuter bus to a brand new Kijang. It took just short of twelve hours to make the entire trip, but it was well worth it.

Tana Toraja is one of the most interesting places I’ve ever been in the entire world, and is probably my third favorite place in Indonesia. The Torajan people are known for their elaborate funeral ceremonies, and they are more than willing to let tourists come and watch, as long as they bring gifts of sugar and cigarettes.

Wherever you go in Indonesia, you can see really great reenactments or performances of ceremonies and traditional dances, but this is just about the only place where the ceremony is legitimate. They’re not reenacting a funeral or even making the funeral more exciting for tourists. This is a beautiful tradition that is still alive and thriving in Tana Toraja. I can’t really describe just how amazing it was, so check out my pictures to see for yourself. The outfits are beautiful and there were enough animal sacrifices to last me many years.

We spent most of our first day at the funeral and then the second day was spent white-water rafting. For some reason, the best way to get to the river was to drive to the top of a mountain, and then hike down the mountain in lifevests and helmets with paddles in our hands. It was a beautiful hike, past waterfalls and through rice paddies (it sort of looked like Rivendell), but I thought that there had to have been a way that would lead to fewer blisters.

Rafting was great. There were some pretty big rapids and tons of iguanas. I was kind of grumpy for the first ten minutes, because I tried to sit in the front of the raft, but the guide told me that the men had to sit in the front. This made no sense, especially because there were girls sitting in the front of other rafts. I was tempted to break his nose with my paddle, but I didn’t.

We spent our final morning in Toraja visiting cave graves outside the city. After elaborate funeral ceremonies, the dead are laid to rest in family graves in man-made or natural caves. We crawled through some pretty tiny tunnels to visit some of the sites. In one of the tunnels we had to slide through on our stomachs, and there were giant spiders everywhere.

Caves, tunnels and spiders don’t freak me out, even when there are skulls lying everywhere, but the tau-tau that are out in front of the graves are super creepy. To mark the graves, life-size replicas of the deceased are placed outside of the caves. In the case of a large family grave, there may be up to thirty of these tau-tau hanging out in the clothes of the dead. Actually, during the day they look pretty stupid, but I’d imagine at night they would be terrifying.

After the cave sites, we jumped back in our cars and headed back to Makassar. This time it only took about ten hours. We arrived back at Chris and Samson’s house at about one o’clock in the morning, but don’t think we went to bed. Most of us had flights to catch in the morning, so almost everyone just stayed up to hang out. Most of us had been traveling almost constantly for December and January, and we were all pretty reluctant to leave each other’s company. In fact, I was so reluctant, that instead of going back to my school, I went to Borneo.